What’s makes a perfect dish? The answer, of course, depends on the circumstances, but, in my world at least, it’s likely to meet the following criteria: delicious, uniquely flavored, quick, inexpensive, good to prepare in advance, nearly foolproof. This one handily passes all of those tests, but even if it didn’t, I’d still make it often because I love to eat it. It’s lean and healthy enough to serve to your family every week, but its exotic, complex and beautifully balanced flavors are special enough for a dinner party.
A tagine is a traditional Moroccan cooking vessel that gives its name to a whole family of satisfying braised dishes that involve combinations of poultry or meat (usually chicken or lamb) with vegetables, olives, fruits and, of course, herbs and spices. Tagines are Moroccan comfort food: the spices should warm your palate, but not overwhelm the other flavors, so resist the temptation to bump up the spice, at least your first time out. The overall effect should be mellow and balanced.
Tagines themselves are beautiful things. The hand-thrown ceramic pots are squat and about the depth of a saute pan, but their tall domed lids are dramatic. They’re also heavy, somewhat fragile, difficult to work with in a modern kitchen, and wholly unnecessary to making a good tagine. If you buy one, I’d recommend using it for serving and use a dutch oven, casserole or other heavy pot for cooking.
A plain or simple couscous is a common and perfectly good side dish here (though not, in fact, a traditional one in Morocco). Instead, though, try boiled or roasted potatoes, french fries (delightfully often served with tagine in Morocco), plain rice or toasted bread drizzled with olive oil (a favorite of mine).
Here’s one of my favorite casual Friday night dinners. On Wednesday or Thursday evening, I make this dish and stash it in the fridge. On Friday, while people are enjoying their cocktails, I warm it on the stove, toss a big green salad, toast some good bread and serve all three at once with a hearty red wine. Top it off with a simple, fruit-based dessert, and the weekend’s off to a great start.
Recipe
Equipment
Dutch oven, casserole or other large, heavy-bottomed pot
small skillet
spice grinder or mortar and pestle
Ingredients
Spices
1 cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1/4 teaspoon whole cloves
Marinade
3 tablespoons of olive oil (approximately, and more to brown the chicken)
1 teaspoon of chopped ginger
3 sliced garlic cloves
2 bay leaves
1 handful of cilantro leaves, roughly chopped (reserve a few leaves for garnish)
1 pinch of saffron (optional)
Chicken
1 3.5 – 4 pound chicken, cut up. Or you can use your favorite chicken parts. I use mostly thighs and legs. Dark meat is delicious in this dish, and, I think, a nice break from all the chicken breast on our plates these days. If you do use breasts, make sure to leave them on the bone to help keep them moist.
Finishing
kosher salt
ground black pepper
1 large onion, chopped
1 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup small green olives, pitted or cracked (such as Picholines or Lucques)
1 preserved lemon (see immediately prior post for recipe)
Instructions
1. Place all of the spices in a skillet over medium heat. Shake the pan occasionally, and toast them just until they start to smoke.
2. Let them cool for a few minutes, and then grind to a powder in a spice grinder or a mortar and pestle. (Inexpensive (about $20) hand held coffee grinders make great spice grinders — just don’t use them for coffee afterward.)
3. Combine the ground spices with the other marinade ingredients and mix into a rough paste. Toss the chicken in the mixture, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least two hours, or overnight.
4. With a silicone spatula, scrape as much of the marinade off of the chicken as you can (don’t worry about small lingering pieces) and reserve it. Then, season the bird with salt and pepper. Pour just enough olive oil into your pot to cover the bottom with a fine film, and then, over medium-high heat, brown the chicken pieces on both sides. To avoid crowding the pan, you may need to do this in two or three batches. After browning, set the chicken aside on a plate.
5. Add the onion to the pot and cook until it starts to brown. Scoop out and discard the flesh of the preserved lemon, thoroughly wash the rind to remove the salt, cut it into strips and add it to the pot. Then, add the reserved marinade and chicken stock to the pot as well.
6. Nestle the chicken in the braising liquid in a single layer and scatter the olives over the top. If your chicken won’t fit in the pot this way, split the dish into two pots rather than layering it, adding a little chicken stock to stretch the liquid, if necessary. The chicken should be about half immersed in the braising liquid. (I often cook a double batch in two pots and freeze half for later.) Cover, and cook over low head for 35-40 minutes until the chicken is tender.
7. Before serving, remove the chicken to warm plates or a platter and taste the remaining sauce, salting it a bit if necessary. Spoon the sauce over the chicken, garnish with cilantro and serve. The dish keeps well in the refrigerator for up to three days and freezes beautifully.
