We had our first cool evening of September on Sunday, and, perhaps tellingly, my thoughts turned to rice pudding. This version of the classic pudding elevates this childhood comfort food into a more grown-up pleasure (that Julia still loves). The pudding is boldly flavored, in the Spanish style, with orange and lemon, and these flavors marry beautifully with strong taste of dark salted caramel. It’s a sort of rice pudding/creme brûlée/flan mashup — in a very good way.
If you’ve never made caramel sauce before, there’s nothing to fear. It’s dead easy, and it takes about five minutes, which is actually kind of a dangerous thing to know . . . .
Recipe
Ingredients
For the rice pudding:
2/3 cup (160ml) short-grain rice (such as arborio or calasparra)
4 cups (1 l) whole milk
1 stick cinnamon
1 orange
1 lemon
1/2 cup (120ml) sugar
1 teaspoon orange flower water (optional)
For the caramel:
1/2 cup (120 ml) sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup (80ml) heavy cream
2 pinches of sea salt
Instructions
For the rice pudding:
1. Peel half of each of the the orange and lemon with a vegetable peeler, taking care to avoid the bitter white pith beneath the skin.
2. Put the rice in a 2 quart saucepan and barely cover it with cold water. Bring it to a rolling boil over high heat and then immediately remove from the heat and drain in a sieve. (Do not rinse the rice.) Set aside.
3. Put the milk, peels and cinnamon in the same saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Just as the milk begins to boil, return the rice to the pan and add the sugar and stir well. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until most of the milk is absorbed and the rice is still firm. (At this point the pudding should have the texture of risotto.)
4. Pick out and discard the cinnamon stick and pieces of peel and spoon the pudding into 4-6 dessert cups or bowls. Let cool and then refrigerate for at least one hour before serving.
For the caramel:
1. Put the sugar in a heavy saucepan that’s much larger than you think you’ll need — at least 2 quarts. Over high heat, melt the sugar until it’s a dark amber, tilting and swirling the pan to incorporate islands of unmelted sugar and to ensure even cooking (don’t stir it).
2. Add the butter and salt and whisk to combine. The mixture will froth up energetically. (This is why you need the larger pan.)
3. As soon as the butter is melted, pour in the cream. Again the mixture will bubble up and may get clumpy. Don’t worry — just whisk it until it’s smooth and silky.
4. Pour into a heatproof container and set aside, resisting the temptation to stick your finger in it until it cools.
The caramel will keep for a couple of weeks in the fridge, and, of course, it’s as delicious on ice cream and index fingers as it is on the pudding.
When you’re ready to serve, top the pudding with a thin layer of the caramel and garnish with a few flakes of sea salt.
