This relish is a culinary magic trick I learned from the great Judy Rodgers of San Francisco’s beloved Zuni Cafe and perform regularly, particularly in the warmer months. With the exception of the optional preserved lemon, it’s made of common pantry ingredients (which, I think, should include preserved lemon, but that’s another subject), comes together in minutes and transforms simple meals into special dishes. Tart lemon, mellow, fruity olive and rich almond flavors mingle in a delicious balance and brighten grilled fish, pork, chicken and even vegetables.
Here’s a menu for a quick, healthy summer dinner: Caprese salad (layered sliced tomatoes, basil and fresh mozzarella, drizzled with olive oil); grilled salmon with green beans, topped with green olive, lemon and almond relish and served with a side of roasted fingerling potatoes); a plum tart to finish.
Recipe (adapted from The Zuni Cafe Cookbook by Judy Rodgers)
Ingredients, for about six servings
12 raw (or blanched) almonds
1 cup green olives (Lucques or Ceregnola are my favorites for this — go for something fleshy and fruity in flavor)
1/4 of a lemon (approximate)
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed, dried and roughly chopped
1-2 tablespoons lemon juice (approximate)
1/4 to 1/2 cup olive oil (approximate)
1 tablespoon of preserved lemon peel, rinsed and chopped (optional)
Instructions
Preheat the oven to 300F.
Drop the almonds into a pot of boiling water for about 10 seconds. Drain, cool for a moment, and then slip off the skins by gripping the almond though a dish towel and squeezing gently. (The nut may fly across the room, but the skin should come off easily.) Of course, if you start with blanched almonds, you can skip this step.
Toast the almonds in a baking sheet until slightly colored, about 10-15 minutes. Cool, and then chop roughly and unevenly.
Rinse and dry the olives. Using the bottom of a pot or a kitchen mallet, gently squish the olives to expose the pits. Pick them out and then roughly and unevenly chop the olive flesh.
Wash the lemon well, cut off the pithy end, and then slice about a quarter of it as thinly as you can. Then chop the slices, peel and all, into bits.
Add the capers, preserved lemon, lemon juice and olive oil and mix in a bowl. In general, use more oil for a richer relish for grilled meats and fish and less for a more crumbly relish for braised dishes or vegetables.
