I keep waiting for our daughter Julia, now 19 months old, to adopt the infamous “white diet” of toddlers, but so far she’s still an adventurous and enthusiastic eater, and this dish is one of her all-time favorites. It’s one of mine too. I first ate it when my friend Dan served it at a birthday dinner for me last year, and I’ve made it regularly since. It’s aromatic and lightly spicy, but this isn’t a heavy wintry lamb stew. The sauteed eggplant and bright citrus flavor lighten the dish enough to be enjoyed nearly all year round.
The original recipe calls for lamb shoulder, but I prefer the leaner leg. I’ve also increased the quantity of eggplant from two medium eggplants to three large ones. It’s good either way. I just can’t get enough eggplant.
This dish is also not complete without a generous dollop of a delicious North African condiment called Harissa. To save time, you can use a good store-bought Harissa (get one in a glass jar — the canned versions can taste metallic), but homemade Harissa in this dish is especially delicious. (I’ve posted a recipe for an amazing California Harissa here).
This isn’t a last-minute dish. It requires an overnight marinade and long cooking times. It tastes even better after a day or two in the fridge, though, so it’s an excellent one to make ahead when you’re in the mood for a cooking project. When you’re ready to serve, just reheat it on the stove.
Recipe
(adapted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques by Suzanne Goin)
Ingredients
For the marinade:
3 pounds leg of lamb, well trimmed and cut into 1 1/2 to 2 inch chunks
1 tablespoon caraway seeds
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
6 cloves of garlic, smashed
3 dried Arbol chiles, crumbled
2 teaspoons paprika (not smoked)
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
For the braise:
2 cups diced onion
2 bay leaves
3/4 cup canned tomatoes, crushed (San Marzanos, if possible)
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
2 1/2 cups chicken stock
2 1/2 cups veal stock
1 cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon whole allspice berries, tied in cheesecloth
olive oil
To finish:
3 large eggplants
1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves
olive oil
Instructions
For the marinade:
1. In a small skillet over medium heat, toast the caraway seeds until fragrant and just begin to brown. Transfer to a mortar and pestle and pound coarsely. Repeat with the coriander. (If you don’t have a mortar and pestle handy, you can crush the seeds under a rolling pin.)
2. In a large bowl, toss the lamb with the caraway, coriander, garlic, chiles, paprika, cayenne and olive oil. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
3. Take the meat out of the refrigerator 45 minutes before cooking. After 15 minutes or so, season on all sides with 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons of kosher salt and lots of black pepper. Remove and reserve the garlic. Preheat the oven to 325F.
For the braise:
4. Heat a large Dutch oven over high heat for about 3 minutes. Pour in 3 tablespoons of olive oil and heat until it shimmers. Place the lamb cubes into the pot, taking care not to crowd them, and brown well on all sides. You’ll need to do this in two or three batches. Remove the browned lamb to a platter.
5. Turn the heat down to medium and add the onion, bay leaves and garlic reserved from the marinade. Stir with a wooden spoon and scrape up all of the crusty bits left from browning the meat. Cook for about 5 minutes until the onions are carmelized. Add the tomatoes and lemon juice to the pot, stir and cook for about 2 minutes more.
6. Add the stocks, cinnamon and allspice, turn up the heat and bring to the boil.
7. Turn off the heat and add the lamb and its juices to the pot. Cover tightly with foil and a close fitting lid and place in the preheated oven to braise for about 3 hours. After three hours, check the meat for doneness: it should almost fall apart under gentle pressure from your thumb. If it’s not this tender, return it to the oven for another 20 minutes or so and check again.
8. While the lamb is braising, prepare the eggplant. Cut the eggplants into approximately one-inch cubes. Toss them in a large bowl with about 2 teaspoons of granulated salt and place them in a colander for about 20 minutes to drain.
9. Pat the eggplant cubes dry with paper towels. Heat a large saute pan over high heat for about 2 minutes, add 3 tablespoons of olive oil and warm it until it shimmers. Add the eggplant (you’ll probably have to do this in batches –don’t crowd the pan), and sear it for a minute of two. Once it’s colored, turn it until all sides are a golden brown. (This will take about 4-5 minutes more.) Remove the eggplant to a baking sheet lined with paper towels.
10. When the meat is done, take it out of the oven and increase the oven temperature to 400F. Gently lift the chunks of lamb out of the pot with a slotted spoon and put them on a plate. Discard the allspice and cinnamon stick. Pour the braising liquid through a strainer placed over a saucepan, pressing down on the vegetables caught in the strainer to extract their juices. Return the lamb to the dutch oven, and then pour in the strained braising liquid until it’s about an inch deep. Reserve the rest.
11. Return the lamb, uncovered, to the oven for about 15 minutes to caramelize.
12. Meanwhile, over medium heat, warm the remaining braising liquid, reducing it slightly if it seems watery. Taste and add salt if necessary, and then add it and the eggplant to the lamb, mixing gently to combine.
Serve with the chopped parsley and a generous dollop of Harissa on each plate. Buttered farro (shown above), rice or simple boiled or roasted potatoes make great side dishes. The stew keeps well in the refrigerator for several days.
