When I went to San Francisco’s Bi-Rite Market this week, something among all of the beautiful local produce caught my eye, and my nose –great bunches of brilliant green, fragrant basil. For me, nothing signals the arrival of high summer like the aroma of fresh basil at it heady peak. I bought a few bunches, put them in water and set them on the kitchen counter.
Later that day, I ventured down to the Mission to Humphry Slocombe, a purveyor of fine artisanal ice cream, known for its unusual and sometimes downright eccentric flavors, such as “foie gras” and “golden beet saffron.” (See a full list of flavors here.) I’m a pretty open-minded guy, but I think, for now at least, I’m going to draw the line at meat flavored frozen desserts. The “balsamic caramel”, “McAvoy olive oil” and “secret breakfast” (bourbon and corn flakes) flavors I tried were really delicious, though.
On the way home, it occurred to me that I could try to capture the flavor and aroma of my Bi-Rite basil in an ice cream. I could almost taste it with fresh raspberries. An afternoon of trial and error later, this is what I came up with.
The basil flavor is delicate — herbal without being vegetal, which I think marries well with the sweetness and richness of the ice cream base. It’s refreshing on its own, and a delicious and unexpected complement to a summer berry pie. I think it’s best, though, as I first tasted it in my mind — with just a few fresh raspberries.
The Bi-Rite Market is located at 3639 18th Street (between Guerrero and Dolores) and online at www.biritemarket.com. Humphry Slocombe is located at 2790 Harrison Street (at 24th) and online at www.humphryslocombe.com.
Recipe
Ingredients
2 cups whole milk
2 cups heavy (whipping) cream (or you can substitute 2 cups of whole milk for a lighter dessert)
7 large egg yolks
1 cup sugar
1 cup fresh basil leaves (approximate)
Instructions
1. In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, bring 1 cup of the milk just to the boiling point. Turn off the heat and add the basil leaves. Let the mixture steep for about a half hour.
2. Puree the milk and basil mixture in a blender.
3. Strain out and discard the solids, leaving behind the beautifully fragrant green basil infusion. Set aside.
4. In a medium saucepan, mix the remaining milk, cream and sugar. Over medium-high heat, bring the mixture to the boil, stirring frequently.
5. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks until they are smooth. Slowly pour in about a quarter of the hot cream mixture, whisking constantly as you do so. Then, add the egg mixture back into the saucepan of hot cream and stir. Stir in the basil infusion. Strain the mixture into a container, cover and chill in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.
6. Freeze the ice cream according to the instructions of your ice cream maker. Refreeze for at least 3 hours and serve garnished with sprigs of basil.
