This is a side dish that’s worth building a meal around. In fact, it’s a simple dish that turns a straightforward plate of roasted pork, lamb or chicken, or grilled fish, into something special.
The ingredients are few, inexpensive and easily obtained, and the preparation is uncomplicated, but the flavor is extraordinary. The braising takes away the crunch and hard licorice flavor of the fennel, leaving behind a mellow, vaguely sweet and just slightly acidic taste that’s a perfect foil for poultry, pork or fish. It’s a refreshing change from a starchy side, and something that most people don’t eat every day.
The cooking time isn’t long or unpredictable, but the dish reheats well, so I often make it in advance, particularly if I’m serving dinner to a large group.
Recipe
(Serves 4-6, adapted from The Zuni Cafe Cookbook by Judy Rodgers)
Ingredients
3 fennel bulbs, trimmed, about 8-10 ounces (220-280g) each
2-3 tablespoons olive oil
About 1/2 cup (120 ml) dry white wine or dry vermouth
About 1/2 cup (120 ml) chicken stock
Salt
Pinch of sugar, if needed
Instructions
1. Preheat the oven to 375F (190C).
2. Cut the fennel bulbs into 1 to 1 1/2 inch (2-4 cm) wedges. (Reserve a bit of the green fronds for garnish, if you like)
3. Warm a large skillet over medium heat for a minute or so, and then add a tablespoon or so of the oil. Warm this for about a minute more, and then fill the pan with fennel wedges, arranged in a single layer. Cook until delicately golden on the bottom (about 5 minutes) and then turn to color the other side. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Repeat this process until you’ve browned all of the fennel.
4. Arrange the wedges in a flameproof baking dish in a single crowded layer. Add the wine or vermouth and the chicken stock in equal amounts until the liquid is about 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) deep. Bring the dish to a simmer over medium heat, and then transfer it to the oven.
5. Bake until the fennel is tender, which will take 30-40 minutes. When you’re ready to serve, taste the pan juices. If they taste thin or acidic, you’ll need to add a little sugar. Tilt the pan to one side to puddle the juices and stir in a pinches of sugar until the flavor tastes balanced. (It will probably take very little sugar to accomplish this.) Then, set the dish over a burner with low heat until the juice bubbles.
Garnish with a light sprinkling of finely chopped fennel fronds if desired and serve promptly, or store in the refrigerator and reheat, covered loosely with foil in a 350F (175C) oven.
Make extra for leftovers.
