I was in San Francisco the last week of October, and, as usual, the highlight of my visit was dinner with my friends Marta, Dan and John. We’ve cooked together for many years, and this dinner came together like all the others –easily and over a cocktail or two and wine. We made a loose plan to meet early in the week, but it wasn’t until Saturday morning that Marta and I started to talk about the menu. Moroccan-inspired, maybe lamb? A tagine? But it was hot and sunny with the (rare) promise of a warm evening, so we decided to grill. I picked up a boned leg roast early in the day so it could marinate while we shopped, and we planned around that.
While we flipped through Moroccan cookbooks for inspiration, I put together my favorite marinade for lamb (recipe below). John agreed to take dessert, and arrived with the delicious fig tart and homemade salted pistachio ice cream you see below. (I’ll post the recipes another time.) Dan came up with some amazing cocktails, which I’ll also post later. As usual, Marta and I used recipes for general inspiration, but made things up as we went along, following our palates (and using what we had on hand and what looked good at the market). The results were delicious. The lamb was tender and gently spiced, cooled by a simple sauce of store-bought hummus thinned with plain yoghurt and lemon juice. The hearty side dish was also a success, a big-flavored seasonal vegetable tagine that would also make a nice vegetarian lunch with a salad on the side. A fresh salad with oranges and green olives and a simple dish of fresh spinach sauteed with garlic and red pepper rounded out the meal.
Marta hosted. She lives in a beautiful and beautifully appointed turn-of-the-century house in San Francisco’s NOPA district. Originally built as an artist’s studio, it’s sheltered from the street by a dense, downward-sloping garden and has a dramatic, original double-height living room with a tall brick fireplace. It feels more like an elegant country home than a house in a happening San Francisco neighborhood. The warm and relaxed atmosphere always adds to the enjoyment of the evening.
Dinner Menu
Salad: Baby Arugula with Shaved Fennel, Sliced Oranges, Green Olives and a Lemon Vinaigrette
Main Course: Roast Lamb with Moroccan Spices, Tagine of Winter Squash and Lentils, Sauteed Spinach
(Recipe below)
Dessert: Fig and Mascarpone Tart with Salted Pistachio Ice Cream
(Recipe to come)
Recipes
Roast Lamb with Moroccan Spices
(Serves 6-8 depending on weight (of the lamb))
Ingredients
One boned leg of lamb
Grated zest of one lemon
Grated zest of one orange
6 cloves of garlic, crushed under the flat of your knife
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 cinnamon stick, ground
About 3 tablespoons olive oil
Freshly ground pepper
Instructions
1. Combine all of the ingredients for the marinade in a bowl and then roll the lamb in it, rubbing the spices and garlic into all of the nooks and crannies of the meat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.
2. About 45 minutes before you’re ready to cook, pull the lamb out of the fridge, transfer it to a room temperature bowl or plate and let it sit to warm up a bit. Salt the lamb all over with several pinches of kosher or coarse sea salt.
3. Preheat the oven to 350F. Light the grill (if using).
4. Roast the lamb on a medium-hot grill (or in a heavy skillet or grill pan), turning the meat frequently until it’s browned on all sides, about 20 minutes.
5. Transfer the lamb to a roasting pan and place in the preheated oven. Roast until the thickest part of the meat reaches 140F on an instant-read thermometer.
6. Remove from Let the roast rest uncovered for at least 10 minutes before serving.
John’s dog Lilly was particularly interested in this phase of preparation. . . . .
Lentil and Squash “Tagine”
(Inspired by Cooking Moroccan by Tess Mallos, serves 8 as a side dish)
Ingredients
1 ½ cups (350 ml) lentils (brown or French green)
1 14 oz (400g) can of chopped tomatoes
1 butternut squash, peeled and cut into pieces
About ¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil
1 onion, minced
8 garlic cloves, chopped coarsely
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
½ teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon sweet paprika (not smoked)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Ground black pepper
About 1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped fresh cilantro
About 1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped fresh parsley
Instructions
1. Wash and drain the lentils and then put them in a saucepan with 4 cups (1 liter) of water. Bring to the boil and then simmer, covered, until they are tender but still al dente, about 20 minutes. Drain and set aside.
2. Meanwhile, peel, seed and cut the squash into about 1 1/2 inch (4 cm) cubes. Set aside.
3. Heat the oil in large heavy bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium heat for about a minute. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until translucent, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic, stir a few times, and then add the spices, salt and a few grinds of pepper. Stir again, and then add the tomato and half of the parsley and cilantro and stir well to combine.
4. Add the drained lentils and squash to the pot. Toss to coat everything with the sauce, add about 1/2 cup (120 ml) water and then cover tightly. Cook over low heat for about 20 minutes, until the squash is tender and cooked through, but still holds it shape. (If the pot dries out during cooking, just add a little water.)
5. When the squash is done, gently toss the contents of the pot. Taste and adjust the seasoning. If the pot is soupy, cook uncovered for a few minutes to evaporate the excess moisture. If it’s dry, add a splash of warm water and stir.
To serve, garnish with the remaining cilantro and parsley.
I can hardly wait until our next dinner together. Indian anyone?
