I wish I could say that I found this alternative to the weighty and wonderful Gratin Dauphinoise in an effort to improve my diet, but the fact is I was just out of cream. I needed to get dinner on the table during the Holidays, and I didn’t have time to run to the market to get the whole milk and heavy cream necessary to make that luxurious dish to go with the evening’s roast beef. A quick consultation of Julia Child’s indespensable Mastering the Art of French Cooking saved the day, though, and led me to Gratin Savoyard, a traditional potato gratin made with Gruyere cheese and stock instead of milk and/or cream.
Julia’s version is made with beef stock and loads of butter, which, of course, is delicious and would be appropriate for, say, celebrating your successful return from climbing the slopes of Mont Blanc. For those of us more likely to be celebrating our return from the mall, it may be a little rich.
This version is lighter and more versatile, if not completely authentic. With a buttered dish and a quarter pound of cheese, it’s hardly spa food, but I’ve reduced the butter to just one tablespoon, and, of course, there’s no milk or cream. I also use chicken stock instead of beef, which, I think, is more suited to most of our palates and pantries these days.
The flavor doesn’t suffer, though. Rich, nutty Gruyere and potatoes belong together, and the stock with a hint of nutmeg bring it all together beautifully. It’s perfect with beef, poultry or veal, and there’s nothing better than a scoop of warmed leftovers with a couple of fried eggs in the morning.
Recipe
(for six)
Ingredients
About 2 pounds (1 kg) of waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold.
About 4 ounces (120g) of good Gruyere cheese.
1 cup (240 ml) of chicken stock, unsalted
1 clove of garlic
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Scant 1 teaspoon table salt
1 tablespoon butter (to coat the baking dish)
freshly ground pepper
Instructions
1. Preheat the oven to 425F (220C).
2. Smash the clove of garlic under the flat of your knife and then rub it all over the inside of a baking dish. (A 12-inch oval or a 10-inch round work well for this recipe. If you increase the quantity, use a dish large enough to keep the gratin no more than 2 inches deep.) Butter the dish generously.
3. Peel and slice the potatoes about 1/8 inch (1/3 cm) thick, using a mandoline or the slicing blade of a food processor. (Doing this by had requires patience and pretty good knife skills.)
4. Coarsely grate the cheese and combine it in a bowl with the grated nutmeg, the salt and several good grinds of pepper. Toss.
5. Bring the chicken stock to the boil in a small saucepan.
6. Layer about half of the potatoes in the dish as evenly as you can and top them with about half of the cheese mixture. Repeat with the remaining potatoes and cheese.
7. Pour the boiling stock over the dish and place it the oven. (It won’t seem like enough liquid, but it is.) Bake for 20-30 minutes until the liquid is absorbed, the potatoes are tender, and the top is nicely browned.
Let the gratin rest for 5-10 minutes before serving, reserving a big spoonful for yourself to enjoy as you clean up the kitchen after dinner.
