For followers of the foodie calendar, it’s ramp season. These tender wild leeks appear for a just few weeks in spring, get overexposed in the food press and on seasonal menus, and then vanish completely for the rest of the year. Don’t be put off by the hype, though. If you run across ramps in the market, roll your eyes if you must, but buy a bunch. They’re uniquely delicious and very easy to use in everyday cooking.
I like them cooked whole and quickly in olive oil and served beside eggs (or a steak, or steak and eggs). They’re also delicious chopped and added to a simple pasta or risotto. Their flavor is unique –gently garlicky, and a bit like scallions, but more complex.
Here’s my favorite way to enjoy ramps this year –as a topping to a “socca,” a French chickpea flour crepe. Sauteed ramps and the rich nutty flavor of the socca go together well, and a drizzle lemon-yoghurt dressing provides a tangy contrast that really brings the dish together. Traditionally served with nothing but a little ground pepper on top, socca are great as a snack, a first course or with a green salad as a light lunch. Unlike traditional crepes, though, these are very easy to make without practice or any special pan: you just pour the batter into a large, hot skillet and bake it in the oven for about 20 minutes.
And, for those with restricted diets, they’re gluten and dairy-free.
Recipe
Ingredients
For the socca:
1 cup (240ml) chickpea (garbanzo bean) flour
1 1/3 cups (315ml) water
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher or medium grain sea salt
Fresh ground pepper
For the topping:
1 large bunch (about 2 dozen) ramps
3 heaping tablespoons of greek yoghurt
1 tablespoon plus two teaspoons olive oil
Juice of 1/2 lemon
kosher or medium grain sea salt
Instructions
1. Preheat the oven to 450F 230C). In a mixing bowl, whisk together the chickpea flour, water, 2 tablespoons of the oil and salt until smooth. The batter will be very thin.
2. Pour the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil into a large skillet or sautee or paella pan — about 14 inches (36cm) in diameter is ideal. (If don’t have a pan this large, no worries –just use the largest skillet you have or a heavy baking sheet.) Heat the oiled pan in the oven for 5 minutes before proceeding. Time this: skipping or rushing this step is about the only way to go wrong with this recipe.
3. Pull the hot pan out of the oven; tilt and swirl it to completely coat the bottom and corners of the pan with the hot oil. Then pour in the batter. (If you don’t have a 14-inch pan, just pour in enough batter to cover the bottom to a depth of about 1/8 inch (3mm).) Tilt and swirl the pan to evenly coat the bottom with the batter, and return it to the oven. Bake for 18-20 minutes, until the socca is dry and firm in the middle and deep brown at the edges.
4. In the meantime, prepare the topping.
5. Wash the ramps carefully, remove the roots and then separate the slim white bulbs from the green leaves. (Reserve a few whole ramps for garnish.) Finely chop the bulbs and coarsely chop the leaves.
6. Warm about 2 teaspoons of olive oil in a skillet over medium heat for about a minute and then add the ramp bulbs (and the whole ramps for garnish) and two or three pinches of salt to taste. Sauté for about 5 minutes until the bulbs are fragrant, lose their garlicky heat and develop a mellow, sweet flavor. Then add the leaves and sauté until they are wilted. Cover to keep warm and set aside.
7. To make the creamy lemon dressing, mix together the yoghurt, 1 tablespoon of olive oil and the lemon juice. Salt to taste and pour into a squeeze bottle, if you have one handy. (If not, you can just drizzle the dressing over the dish with a spoon.)
8. When the socca is done, pull it out of the oven and carefully remove it from the pan with a stiff spatula. (It should come out easily.) Transfer it to a cutting board and add plenty of fresh ground pepper.
9. Arrange the ramps on top and squeeze or drizzle on your deliciously creamy lemon dressing.
10. Cut into wedges and serve hot or warm.
