The end of summer always leaves me a little blue. (And by my reckoning, summer has just ended. With self-serving inconsistency, I begin the season with Memorial Day and end it with the autumn equinox, which was on September 23 this year.) There are many consolations, though: crisp air, golden light, tweed jackets, and deliciously […]
Food
I’m working on my eggs. Don’t worry –I’m not going to bore you with obsessive step-by-step analyses of frying, poaching or omelet making (though I can sometimes really go for that sort of thing). I have been trying out some new recipes and techniques to brighten up my repertoire of egg dishes, however, and I […]
I love a good casserole. The comforting single-dish meals were an important part of the food of my childhood. You don’t see many of those 60s casseroles anymore, though, maybe because our palates have evolved beyond their frequently salty, one-dimensional flavors (often produced by convenience ingredients like canned condensed cream of mushroom soup, tater tots […]
There are a few dishes I call kitchen help –I keep them around to help me get a nice meal on the table in very little time. Actually, they’re more condiments or relishes than full-fledged dishes. I can make them quickly (and in advance, when I’m that organized) from common or pantry ingredients and then […]
On Saturday morning Julia asked me, “What kind of ice cream are you making today, papa?” It’s become a weekend ritual this summer. I make ice cream and Julia usually sits on the counter and helps, or at least jumps in when it’s time to lick the dasher. When I answered, “Indonesian palm sugar ice […]
My apologies for the title –I couldn’t resist. In spite of a name that suggests a complex confectionary achievement of tsarist Russia, Pavolva is an Australian dessert (and some would say the Australian national dessert) with distinctly Australian virtues — it’s fresh, unfussy and lots of fun. Named after a famous Russian ballerina who visited […]
One of my favorite things to eat in summer is a slice of good toasted bread topped with mustard and thick slices of fresh ripe tomatoes from the garden. It’s so simple, but if all of the ingredients are great, it’s a slice of heaven. This pizza-like savory tart captures those bright, satisfying summer flavors […]
Ok, I know there’s nothing exciting about chicken salad. In fact, I generally don’t really like it. I love the chicken, and I’m fond of a good mayonnaise (especially home made), but, for me, these are two great tastes that don’t taste great together. And, again for me, tricks like adding curry, nuts, grapes and […]
Last weekend in Southampton was perfect — walks on the beach, frolicking with Julia in the pool and long, late dinners with our good friend Maria Moyer. On Saturday morning, I decided to use the lemon verbena growing in our garden to make gelato to follow the seafood paella I had planned for dinner. Maria, […]
I’m not very good at lunch. I’m great at eating it –I’m always hungry at lunchtime, and I like a full hot lunch whenever I can get it. I’m not very good at planning, making and serving it, though, especially to weekend house guests. (I often tell myself that we’ll just serve breakfast and dinner […]